There are some sewing projects where you know exactly what you’re doing from start to finish. And then there are the projects where you spend three days standing over a pile of tiny pattern pieces saying, “Okay… let’s figure this out.” This swimsuit was definitely the second kind. 😂
I wanted to make myself a new swimsuit for a little summer getaway, and I decided to use a pattern from F* Word Swim as my starting point. I had made one of their patterns before, so I had a general idea of what I was getting myself into. The patterns don’t come with traditional instructions, though, so I knew there would be some figuring-it-out involved.
And, naturally, I decided to make it reversible and hack the pattern at the same time.
Pattern Hacking the Swimsuit
The original pattern has a high neckline and a pretty dramatic cutout on the sides. I liked the general idea, but I wanted to add a little peekaboo detail to the center front while also giving myself just a bit more coverage.
The first pattern piece I cut made me immediately question my life choices. It was tiny. I knew swimsuit fabric stretches, but I wasn’t convinced that the original piece was going to cover everything I wanted it to cover.
So I adjusted the pattern before cutting into my fabric, adding some width while trying to preserve the original curved shape. I also created a center-front cutout and made sure to leave enough seam allowance and room to actually construct the thing.
This is one of those projects where pattern hacking is much easier when you remember that you can always take more away—but adding it back is considerably more annoying.
Making the Swimsuit Reversible
For the fabric, I used a gorgeous photorealistic floral print with a solid black reverse. I originally debated using another floral print for the second side, but ultimately decided that black would give me more versatility.
The bottoms were constructed as a reversible swimsuit, which meant some mildly ridiculous sewing maneuvers were required. I left an opening in the crotch so I could turn the whole thing right side out, and then used that opening to finish the waistband.
This is one of those techniques that makes absolutely no sense while you’re looking at the pieces on the table, but suddenly works once you start pulling fabric through the magical little tube you’ve created.
And Then… The Fit
The original bottoms were not happening.
They were extremely cheeky, and while I don’t mind a cheeky swimsuit, this particular version was veering into “this was not supposed to be a thong” territory.
So I switched gears and used the Ray Swimming Brief by Sew Swimmingly as my starting point for a new pair of bottoms. I added some additional coverage, adjusted the shape, and added a separate waistband.
I also discovered that my swimsuit fabric didn’t have quite the recovery I wanted in one direction, which led to another little lesson in paying attention to grainline and stretch direction when cutting swimwear.
Because apparently I needed one more thing to troubleshoot.
Was It Worth It?
Honestly? Yes.
After all of the pattern adjustments, tiny pieces, weird reversible construction, elastic wrestling, and general swimsuit-related nonsense, I actually really love the finished suit.
It looks very small when it’s sitting on the table, but once it’s on my body, it feels surprisingly secure and comfortable. The high neckline and back give it a sporty feel, while the cutout and floral print keep it fun.
And most importantly, I feel like I could actually swim, move around, and go down a waterslide without worrying about losing pieces of my swimsuit. Since often when I’m swimming I’m doing so with my wild 3 year old nephews, that bit was important.
Would I make another one? Ask me again after I’ve forgotten how much work this was. 😂
If you’d like to see the entire swimsuit sewing saga—including all of my pattern adjustments, reversible construction experiments, fit troubleshooting, and the moments where I question whether I should have just bought a swimsuit—I walk through the whole process in the video below.
Watch the video:
My other me-made swimsuits:
- My first ever DIY swimsuit was mermaid inspired.
- After that I went a little more classic/sporty.
- Next I tried my hand at making something reversible.
- Once I learned the reversible technique, I thought it was time for a seriously versatile mix and match set.
- I even made a coverup once!
And if you’ve ever made your own swimwear, I’d love to know: what’s your biggest swimsuit sewing struggle—fit, elastic, fabric, or just the sheer amount of tiny pieces? Let me know in the comments!
Happy sewing! 💕
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