Welcome to day 4 of the Roksi Trio sewalong! Today is all about sizing and fit. As you can see, the Roksi is a pretty loosely fit garment, but that doesn’t mean fit isn’t important.
CHOOSING A SIZE
When choosing a size for making your Roksi, I highly recommend going by your high bust measurement rather than your full bust. The high bust measurement is taking by wrapping the measuring tape around your body, under your armpits, and over your bust (across your chest) rather than across the fullest point of your bust. With the extreme drape & swing of this pattern, you really want the Roksi to have a nice fit under the arms to help keep the lines clean. Taking your high bust measurement & choosing a size that closest fits that measurement according to the body measurement chart will be your best bet for a nice fitting Roksi. If you are in between sizes, its a pretty safe bet that you can size down. You won’t need to do any between-size grading for this pattern. As always, if you are unsure and cutting into some prized fabric, I would make a muslin first.
As you know, Amy Nicole patterns are drafted for petites (ladies 5’4” and under). If you are on the taller side, or know that you are long in the torso, you definitely may want to add some length to your Roksi Trio. As a reference, I’ve provided finished length measurements on the size chart so you can get an idea of how much length you need to add.
There are two methods available for adding length. You can follow the lengthen/shorten diagram in the instruction book (page 8) using the lengthen/shorten guides on your pattern pieces to add length without effecting the amount of sweep in the hem. Keep in mind that for the dress length there are two lengthen lines on the pattern. Alternatively you could simply add length to the hemline. Keep in mind this would add to the sweep & flare of the dress, but you most likely won’t be adding enough to make a substantial difference… and since when is extra flare a bad thing? The method you choose is entirely up to you (you may even choose to do a bit of both!) Beginners may find that adding to the hemline is a much quicker and more foolproof method.
A NOTE ABOUT ROKSI’S FIT
The Roksi Trio is an extremely swingy pattern. It is specifically drafted to be this way. When you wear it, you just feel this amazing drape of fabrics falling over you. This silhouette is not necessarily ideal for every occasion. For instance, if you find at your job or in your day-to-day you are bending down a lot… the Roksi is probably not your best choice. Additionally, if you live in a perpetually windy climate and spend a lot of days outside… again, not your best choice. Unless of course you are a huge Marilyn Monroe fan and have an intense desire to re-create her infamous subway scene on a day to day basis. If these things are true for you, does this mean you shouldn’t make the Roksi? … Of course not! You just want to wear the Roksi on a not so windy day when you know you are going to be inside a lot, and/or prepare to lower at the knees rather than bending at the waist. You may find it odd that I’m telling you this but I couldn’t go without mentioning it as its something a few of my testers noticed right away and honestly, its not one of those things that needs to be fixed – its just the style of the pattern. Just consider it before you don your Roksi for the day… and don’t say I didn’t warn ya! 😉
And that about sums up our module on sizing & fit! Join me tomorrow for a fun discussion on all the ways you can customize & hack your Roksi to best suit you!
Happy Roksi Sewing!