Sewing with knit fabrics can be intimidating. Especially if you’ve never done it before. My newest pattern is the first pattern in my collection that calls for knit fabric. So today for the Colleen Cape Dress & Top sewalong we are talking everything knit fabrics. What makes a fabric a knit? How do you choose the right ones? Why is stretch percentage important? I’m diving into all of that with you today as well as giving you a FREE PRINTABLE fabric stretch guide to keep in your sewing kit that will help you determine if your fabric has enough stretch for the chosen pattern.

Let’s start with the basics:

What is knit fabric? (pictured above, right)

Knit fabrics are produced using textile machines that produce interlocking loops of yarn, which can be made from a variety of fibers and blends of fibers. Most all knit fabrics have some amount of stretch in them, more or less depending on fibre content and stitch type. Knit fabrics are generally quite soft to the touch and very comfortable to wear, making them more common for casual clothing.

What is woven fabric? (pictured above, left)

Woven fabric is a textile that is produced by interlacing two yarns at right angles to each other. Woven fabrics are often more tightly woven and stronger than knit fabrics. Woven fabrics can have stretch when made with elastane fibers, however the makeup of the fabric is completely different and not ideal for extremely form fitted garments. Woven fabrics tend to be used more for day wear and formal wear.

What is the difference between knit and woven fabric?

Knit fabric is more flexible than woven fabric. It is more stretchy, and has the ability to stretch and recover to its original form. Knit fabrics typically have a more fluid drape, and are often used for clothing that needs to fit well and conform to the body, such as t-shirts, dresses, and leggings.

Woven fabric is less flexible and has a stiffer drape. It is often used for clothing that needs to have a more structured shape, such as skirts, pants, and jackets.

Ok let’s talk stretch:

What is fabric stretch and recovery?

Fabric stretch and recovery refers to the elasticity of a fabric, or its ability to stretch and return to its original shape. Knit fabrics typically have a higher stretch and recovery than woven fabrics. For a fabric with good recovery (bounce back), you will typically want something with a fiber content that includes lycra, spandex, or elastane. Recovery is not necessary for all knit garments. For example a loose chunky sweater would not need to have good recovery. However good recovery is ideal for those more fitted knit garments like activewear, lingerie, and the Colleen Cape Dress or Top!

What is fabric stretch percentage?

Fabric stretch percentage refers to the amount that a fabric can stretch in relation to it’s size while laying flat, usually expressed as a percentage. For example, a fabric with a 4-way stretch percentage of 50% can stretch 50% in width and 50% in length. Most knit sewing patterns will include a recommended stretch percentage for your fabric requirements. It is important to follow these recommendations to get the appropriate fit in your handmade garment.

2-way VS 4-way stretch

When referring to fabric, we typically consider stretch along both the X and Y axis. So if a fabric only has 2 way stretch, it only stretches along the cross grain (from grainline to grainline) on the X axis. If a fabric has 4 way stretch, then it stretches both vertically along the length of the fabric (Y axis) as well as on the cross grain. For a garment like Colleen, 4 way stretch is desirable, especially for the dress length. The stretch along the length of the fabric will keep your garment from riding up with wear throughout the day.

FREE Fabric Stretch Guide

Determining how much stretch your fabric has can be confusing. I’ve created a fabric stretch guide you can print to keep in your studio or even take to the fabric store with you. Use this guide to determine if the fabric you are looking at has the appropriate stretch for the pattern you are sewing.

To use this guide, simply cut an appropriately sized swatch, and stretch your fabric along the guide. Don’t be too forceful with it. Wherever the fabric comfortably stops stretching is the percentage of stretch your fabric has. If you are using the guide at the fabric store and can’t cut a swatch, simply hold the fabric between your fingers at the appropriate distance for the original swatch size.

download the guide here

And that’s it for today!

The next sewalong post will be all about sewing with knit fabrics. I’ve filmed a helpful video that shows different stitch options on your home sewing machine.

Until then, Happy sewing!